Sustainable Fashion From a Designer's Perspective
Topic: Sustainability — in collaboration with Kennedy Smith
In chapter one of “A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE FASHION” the reader is introduced to the ongoing problem and key issues in the fashion industry. The author, Alison Gwilt, portrays how the world can fix these habits by implementing sustainable fashion. Essentially, sustainable fashion is the idea of manufacturing and designing clothes that minimize the harsh effects it has on the environment. Gwilt also claims that the first steps of sustainable fashion starts with the responsibility of the designer and how he/she decides to produce their garments. However, it should be remembered that designers must consider the principles of sustainable design in relation to their own situation and apply them appropriately and with conviction (Gwit, 2014). The chapter concludes by explaining that the fashion industry is continuing to make improvements while still producing unique and intricate designs.
Chapter two, “The life cycle of a garment” is thoroughly explained and the potential environmental and social impacts of the design and production process is identified. The life cycle is generally broken down into five key phrases: design, production, distribution, use and end-of life. Applying a life cycle approach to the design process requires thinking through all the stages (Gwilt, 2014). Throughout the process, designers are able to evaluate and assess the sustainability needs of their designs in order to make improvements. Gwilt concludes the chapter explaining the importance of using sustainable design strategies. This is important not only to know the creative potentials and opportunities of engaging with sustainability, but to understand how sustainability can possibly change a designer’s perception when designing and making garments.
I think sustainability has become more popular and is being used more often in the fashion industry. I never really understood what the difference it made. As a future fashion designer, I am most likely to use the life cycle of a garment discussed in the chapter. I had no idea of the serious damages that a lot of popular brands are being put into the environment. I think in our generation, millennials and Gen Z, we lack the knowledge of using sustainability and what a difference it would make if we slowly transitioned to using sustainable products. Being a victim of online shopping and fast fashion, I appreciate the effort and improvements being made to fix the fashion industry.
This video "What is a Life Cycle Assessment?" explains how this method is used to measure the environmentally impact of a product. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOgDLNMJ4Pc
Stella McCartney
A designer that is implementing sustainable fashion is Stella McCartney. Her design philosophy is “We are committed to operating a modern and responsible business.” McCartney’s mission for sustainable fashion can be inspiring to many other brands by the decisions that they are making to make a difference in the fashion industry. For example, on the Stella McCartney website they state: “Each decision we make is a symbol of our commitment to defining what the future of fashion looks like. From never using leather or fur and pioneering new alternative materials to utilising cutting edge technologies, pushing towards circularity, protecting ancient and endangered forests and measuring our impact with ground-breaking tools.” Stella McCartney stores are eco-friendly, including wood that they use within their stores and offices is Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified. This means it comes from certified, sustainable managed forests. All of their packaging and paper is either FSC certified or from recycled sources. In general, they aim to use at least 50% post-consumer wastepaper in all of their stores, helping them to become a zero-waste business.
Stella McCartney incorporates sustainable principles in her business. The company uses a breakthrough decision-making tool called the Environmental Profit and Loss (EP&L) to measure and understand their impact on the environment that goes beyond traditional environmental reporting. McCartney is known for not using leather, fur, or exotic skins in her collections or collaborations. Within her collections, she uses organic cottons and low-impact dyes, and embraces new techniques and materials (Gwilt, 2014). The company aims to reduce negative impacts across its entire operations, including reviewing and improving production as discussed in chapter two.
Learning from these two chapters has inspired me to start making changes in my designing process by purchasing sustainable fabrics, using less pattern making paper, and also using different design techniques to save my fabric. These chapters relate to patternmaking by rethinking how to make pattern pieces and the layout. Questions to ask myself as a designer would be, how could the layout be improved to reduce fabric usage? Are the pieces close enough together? What would happen if I folded the fabric differently, or did not cut on the fold?
Stella McCartney’s design philosophy is influential and inspiring as she produces quality sustainable products. I have learned that she isn’t only focused on womenswear but has introduced innovative textiles and business strategies to uplift sustainability. She has adapted the philosophy to various categories, including accessories, eyewear, childrenswear, and menswear. Her design process can have and make an impact on current and upcoming fashion designers.
Website: https://www.stellamccartney.com/us
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/stellamccartney/?hl=en
References
GORE-TEX Brand. (2014, October 22). What is a Life Cycle Assessment? GORE-TEX Products (Garments, Chapter 2). Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOgDLNMJ4Pc
Gwilt, A. (2014). Practical Guide To Sustainable Fashion (1st ed.). doi: 10.5040/9781474218559
Mission statement. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/themes/mission-statement/
Stella McCartney. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.stellamccartney.com/us
Photo References
McCartney, Stella. (n.d.). Cashmere. Retrieved from https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/themes/materials-and-innovation/cashmere/
McCartney, Stella. (n.d.). Organic Cotton. Retrieved from https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/us/sustainability/themes/materials-and-innovation/organic-cotton/
McCartney, Stella. (n.d.). Fur-Free-Fur. Retrieved from https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/us/sustainability/themes/materials-and-innovation/fur-free-fur/
McCartney, Stella. (n.d.). Our eco-friendly stores and offices. Retrieved from https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/our-stores-and-office